Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island

Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, 2017

Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, 2020

Civil War Troops, Catalina Harbor, 1864.

Hattie, Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, 1891

Isthmus, Catalina Harbor, c. 1905.
photo by Charles C. Pierce

Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, 1924

Isthmus Cove, Santa Catalina Island, 1927

Christian's Hut, Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, late 1930s

Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, c. 1950

Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island (Isthmus Cove and Two Harbors) was first mapped in 1602 by Father Antonio de la Asencion, who accompanied Sebastian Vizcaino’s expedition to Alta California in 1602-1603. His map identifies Puerto de Santa Catalina as today’s Isthmus Cove. The cove is located on the island’s leeward side, facing the adjacent mainland. Opposite Isthmus Cove the harbor is identified simply as Ensenada, or Bay. Today it is named Catalina Harbor (Cat Harbor).

Isthmus Cove is second only to Avalon Harbor in boat activity on the Island. It has 242 moorings and more than 100 anchorages. Ferries from the mainland dock at the pier in Isthmus Cove. The Two Harbors Harbor Department is based here. Shore boat rides are available year-round with 24 hour-a-day service in the summer and a more limited schedule in the winter.

Isthmus Cove was chosen as the site for the construction of Civil War barracks in 1863, although by September 1864 all military personnel had left the island. The drive to develop the isthmus began in 1899 when the Bannings owned all the land. They hoped to develop a resort, to be named Catalina City, that would rival Avalon. They planted Eucalyptus trees, built a new pier, and began building water and sanitation facilities. A large resort hotel to rival the Metropole, and a tent city was planned. In April 1903 the Massachusetts landscape architecture firm of Olmstead Brothers was hired to help with designs. In late 1903 the stage road to the Isthmus was completed, but in 1905, the Isthmus development project was put on hold. After the courts opened Avalon as a public port, the Bannings had renewed interest in creating their new resort, and in 1908 further improvements were made. In 1909, Joseph Brent Banning, (1861-1920), second son born to Phineas and Rebecca Banning, built his home at the Isthmus with commanding views of Two Harbors. Today this historic house serves as the Banning House Lodge.

ISTHMUS HARBOR: “Whose shores abound with species that are rare elsewhere, Mesembryanthemum and a number of crucifers. About half a mile to the east lies Fisherman’s Cove.” [Millspaugh & Nuttall. Flora of Santa Catalina Island (1923)].

William Greig managed the Isthmus and its concessions in the 1920s for William Wrigley, Jr. after his 1919 purchase of the island. Managers of the Isthmus include:

• William Greig 1920s
• D. M. Renton 1929-1930
• Art LaShelle 1930 to WWII and again into 1952
• Irwin Schuman Isthmus operator in 1941
• Collers 1940s
• Doug Bombard 1958-1997
• John Phelps 1998-2007

Circling the Isthmus north from Isthmus Cove and Catalina Harbor there are seven large named rocks: Pin Rock, Whale Rock, Ribbon Rock, Eagle Rock, Indian Rock, Ship Rock, and Bird Rock.

The 1940 census lists the following as Isthmus residents:

• Harry Boosinger, 39
• Charles G. Anderson, 58
• Dorothy B. Lee, 45
• Oscar F. Giles, 37

Drownings at the Isthmus include

• O'NEILL, WIlliam (1890)

Wrecks at Inner Catalina Harbor (Isthmus) include: Ning Po Palmyra Margaret C. Charles F. Crocker

From the 1920s through the mid 1940s many Hollywood films that required "tropical" backgrounds were shot at the island's Isthmus, including: the original Mutiny on the Bounty; Old Ironsides; Treasure Island; King of Kings; Captain Blood; Rain; Count of Monte Cristo; Captain's Courageous; Hurricane; The Sea Hawk; The Ten Commandments; and Ebb Tide. (More movies were filmed at the Isthmus than anywhere, other than Hollywood, during that time.) It was an economical stand-in for the Polynesian islands — and a great place to party! Art LaShelle worked at the Isthmus for a decade, acting as go-between for the film industry and the Santa Catalina Island Company (1930 to WWII and again into 1952.) In 1935 he opened a bar, Christian's Hut, named for Christian Fletcher, character in Mutiny on the Bounty, using a building left by a movie set.

In the 1950s, Doug Bombard, son of one time mayor of Avalon, Al Bombard, managed the area for the Santa Catalina Island Company. Prior to Bombard, Preston Charles “Press” Taylor (1907-1984) had managed the area.

Today Isthmus Cove is a tourist destination, where one square mile of land is public. Four hundred moorings are supported off shore.

• 

  153.
  Stage and Isthmus, Catalina Island, Cal.
  Edward H. Mitchell Publisher, San Francisco
  Private Mailing Card
  Authorized by Act of Congress May 19, 1898
  [original in SCIF archives]

• 

  No. 4274.
  Catalina Harbor, Catalina Island.
  M. Rieder Publ., Los Angeles, Cal.
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  5501.
  Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, California
  H. H. T. Co.
• 

  No. 5527.
  The Inlet at the Isthmus,
  Santa Catalina Island, Cal.
  Newman Post Card Co.
  postmarked Aug. 5, 1907
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  1014
  The Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, Cal.
  The Carlin Post Card Co.
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  C-43
  The Isthmus,
  Catalina Island, California
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  C-82 (7A-H1687)
  The Isthmus,
  Santa Catalina Island, California
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  C-85 (7A-H1686)
  The Isthmus Harbor
  Catalina Island, California
  [original in SCIF archives]
• 

  C-86
  The Isthmus, San Clemente Island in Distance
  Santa Catalina, California
  Western Publishing & Novelty Co.
  [original in SCIF archives]

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• 

  Isthmus
  Photo by P. V. Reyes
• 

  Isthmus Dance Hall, Santa Catalina Island, 1948
• 

  C-86
  Isthmus, Santa Catalina Island, c. 1930s

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In the News~

June 12, 1864 [DAC]: “Letter from Santa Catalina Island. June 3rd, 1864... The Isthmus is a beautiful location, although treeless and uncultivated. It does not exceed a furlong in width, and in length scarcely exceeds half a mile. Its course is north and south and it has a harbor at each extremity. The north, or landward harbor is well situated for the small craft now engaged in trade from San Pedro. But a weird and bold scenery surrounds the south harbor, called, by way of pre-eminence, "Catalina Harbor." Though small, it is deep and almost landlocked, affording safe anchorage for vessels of large tonnage at almost all seasons of the year. The Isthmus is almost exclusively occupied by the military now stationed there. Captain West, the officer in command on the island, is a quiet, estimable gentleman, and a genial companion. His mild but firm discipline has endeared him to his men. Barracks are in process of erection, and it would be wisdom in the Government to be liberal in its appropriations for military improvements on the island of Santa Catalina...”

September 8, 1889 [LAH]: “Do not miss the grand moonlight ride between the Isthmus and Avalon, Wednesday night, the 9th.”

1897: “…The island is about twenty-two miles long and from three to eight miles wide. It is cut into almost two islands, for at the Isthmus it is but a quarter of a mile from sea to sea, though on either side there are lofty peaks. Two or three fishermen live at the Isthmus...” [Blanche Trask. Field Notes from Santa Catalina Island in Erythea 7:135, 1899].

1899: “Two or three fishermen live at the Isthmus...” [Trask, L. B. Field notes from Catalina Island in Erythea 7:135-146, 1899]

[1901]: “The stage line is now complete from Avalon to Eagles Nest, a distance of about 12 miles, so that there is a coach road from Avalon to the Isthmus, except about 5 miles. [Charles F. Holder, An Isle of Summer]. [Note: The road from Eagle’s Nest to Little Harbor was not complete by 1901.]

September 13, 1901 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. Captain Hancock Banning of the yacht La Paloma, with N. W. Bell and W. R. Staats, who have been cruising about for three weeks, returned to Avalon Bay yesterday afternoon, and left for San Pedro this morning, where their cruise will come to an end. They visited San Diego and Santa Barbara, and spent some days on Santa Cruz Island, and for some days have been lying at in Catalina Harbor at the Isthmus.”

March 11, 1903 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The gathering of abalone pearls is an infant industry attracting some attention here. Wilson, the Isthmus fisherman, came down yesterday at the request of people here to dispose of a lot of pearls which he has accumulated. They are from the abalones, which have heretofore abounded about the island, but which are now becoming rather scarce. Wilson’s hoard of pearls numbers several hundred, but are mostly small, though some are of good size and perfect in shape. There are many ‘freaks’ among them, one being almost an exact representation of a shoe.”

April 12, 1903 [LAT/SCat]: “The Banning Company is projecting great things for Santa Catalina. The scene of their latest effort is at and in the vicinity of the Isthmus, where they will expend more than a million dollars in improvements. Olmstead Brothers, the greatest landscape architects in this country, have charge of the work of laying out the grounds, not alone about the Isthmus, but they will lay out a park boulevard extending from the Isthmus to Emerald Bay, a distance of four miles and intersecting half a dozen canyons en route. The boulevard will be down close by the water’s edge, and will be practically level, at no place having a greater grade than 2-1/2 percent. It will have an average width of 60 feet. At no point will it be less than 30 feet, and in many places it will be full 100 feet in width. It is part of their plan to connect the stage road running from Avalon to Eagle’s Nest, with that leading from the Isthmus to Little Harbor, the connecting link to be built being about six miles…”

December 30, 1903 Catherine MacLean Loud writes in her diary: “The Stage Company are building two barns, one at the Isthmus and one in Avalon. They each stable 30 horses and provender. The road to the Isthmus is now completed.”

February 2, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The business men of Avalon had a gala time yesterday afternoon and evening when they went in a body to make a call on B. F. Latimer, the host of ‘The Barracks’ at the Isthmus…”

February 4, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The Isthmus trip by stage and return thence by boat is proving very popular.”

April 22, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The mystery of the unusual activity at the Isthmus is solved. Rev. B. Fay Mills is behind the scheme. Mill has conducted several summer schools, or camp meetings, and it is his purpose to spend the summer — from the middle of June to September 1 — at the Isthmus, where he will preach to the large body of campers which, it is to be expected, will be attracted. It is figured that thousands interested in the Mills philosophy and who love to sit within the sound of his voice, will follow him to the Isthmus, there to have a pleasant outing and at the same time imbibe divine truth as it trickles from the eminent evangelist’s lips. The scheme is to be worked out on a very liberal plan. An amphitheater, the lumber for which was shipped from San Pedro today, capable of seating 5000 persons, is to be built, and to make room for the building the pretty little park which now ornaments the place, will be sacrificed. It is expected that from 25,000 to 30,000 people will be drawn to the Isthmus during the season. A large number of tents, in addition to those now being taken from Avalon, will be placed for their accommodation. About seventy-five mechanics are now on the ground at the Isthmus and the number is increased daily by twenty-five or thirty…

April 30, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. C. A. Bryant, proprietor of the stage line, gave a picnic to a party of friends yesterday taking them to he Isthmus on one of his stages. The start was made at 8 o’clock, a perfect day favoring the excursionists… Arriving at the Isthmus, and lunch being disposed of, Mr. Bryant, leaving nothing undone for the entertainment of his guests, took them over the speedway, only just completed, to Emerald Bay, a most charming drive. At 4:30 they boarded the Meteor for the trip by water home, arriving at 5:30.”

June 13, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The Warrior came over last evening with a party of Southern Pacific railroad men… The night was spent at Hotel Metropole, and this morning the party went by stage to the Isthmus, stopping at Middle Ranch for luncheon.”

June 28, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. Camp Cabrillo, formerly the Isthmus, is to be opened July 15. A number of visitors have already taken quarters there. The improvements at the place include many trees planted. The program of the series of literary and other entertainments to be given in the course of the six weeks following the opening has been partly prepared.”

July 1, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. C. A. Bryant, owner of the Catalina stage line, took L. J. Rose Jr., of Oxnard, and his family through to the Isthmus yesterday by stage. Mr. Rose is one of the largest farmers of Ventura County. He raises beans, lemons and walnuts, having sold a grove of 160 acres of the latter.”

July 27, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The yacht Ramona carried a picnic crowd to the Isthmus and White’s Landing today.”

August 5, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The bowling alleys which were put into the old Island Villa dining room when that hostelry was removed to its present site, have been taken out and are being removed to the Isthmus.”

August 8, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. There was considerable excitement here yesterday because of the rivalry which has been generated between the Meteor Boat Company and the Avalon Company, both of which have maintained barbecue excursions twice a week all through this season, giving a dinner at the Isthmus…”

September 4, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The Meteor Company gave another barbecue at the Isthmus yesterday, about sixty people participating.”

September 8, 1904 [LAT/SCat]: “Avalon. The restaurant at the Isthmus was closed for the season yesterday, but there is a general store and numerous tents so that persons choosing to go there to camp can get supplies… The Meteor carried fifty people to the Isthmus on its barbecue excursion yesterday.”

April 21, 1914 [TI/Avalon]: “Hancock Banning and a party of friends, on the yacht Cricket, visited Avalon Friday. After a trip to the Isthmus, the party returned to San Pedro.”

July 14, 1914 [TI/Avalon]: “Captain William Banning spent the weekend on the island, making a trip to the Isthmus Sunday.”

November 17, 1914 [TI/Avalon]: “The Isthmus. Its possibilities as a pleasure resort unequaled. But few residents in Avalon realize the possibilities the Santa Catalina Island Company has for making the Isthmus an attractive pleasure resort, in competition with Avalon… Objections have been raised owing to the wind at the Isthmus, but the old barracks, and other buildings show no more signs of inclement weather, than do any structures in Avalon after a three days winter storm. On cottages which have not been used for years, the shingles are yet intact…”

July 27, 1915 [TI/Avalon]: “Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Banning and family arrived Saturday, and left for their beautiful summer home, which overlooks Isthmus harbor. The family are planning to spend the summer on the island.”

September 14, 1915 [TI/Avalon]: “Mr. Hancock Banning and party arrived on the yacht Velero Saturday night, leaving for the Isthmus Sunday morning.”

September 28, 1915 [TI/Avalon]: “The daily trips to the Isthmus made by the Cornell and the Greeley Stage Coach Company are still well patronized by tourists and others. The dinner and the interesting explanation of the many points of interest by Mr. Cornell are features of the boat trip.”

April 4, 1916 [TI/Avalon]: “Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Banning and family are to remain for several weeks at the Isthmus.”

August 8, 1916 [TI/Avalon]: “More campers are at the Isthmus this season than there has been for many years. Daily runs are made by the launch Cornell, and ‘good time’ exclamations can be heard from those who participate…”

August 15, 1916 [TI/Avalon]: “Every day the launch Cornell, Captain George N. Cornell, leaves Avalon for the Isthmus.”

August 15, 1916 [TI/Avalon]: “A big blast that will probably jar the whole island will be touched off by Superintendent Collings at the government quarry near the Isthmus this morning. Five tons of dynamite will be discharged.”

August 22, 1916 [TI/Avalon]: “Fifteen thousand tons of rock were blown off the top and side of the hill at the Isthmus quarry by the recent heavy blast. Further large explosions are being prepared for, which will probably be set off some day this week.”

March 12, 1918 [TI/Avalon]: “Narrowest point on the island, where it is less than half a mile from water to water. The site of a future town built by the owners of the island, the Banning Brothers. Great preparations are making to beautify this locality, and splendid boulevards, villa sites and a fine hotel are under contemplation. Several thousand trees have been planted and are making a fine growth. On February 5, 1864, Captain R. B. West, commanding at the Fourth California Infantry, stationed at the Isthmus, gave orders for all miners to leave the island. The government barracks is still intact at the Isthmus.”

March 12, 1918 [TI/Avalon]: “Howland’s — Here also were many mining claims, and here yet may be found ‘prospects’ which would turn the head of many a mining prospector. Ere is the well from which water is pumped to the Isthmus.”

March 12, 1918 [TI/Avalon]: “C. B. Parker and A. B. Chappell have been repairing the slight washes in the auto mountain stage road, which is again passable through to the Isthmus.”

June 25, 1920 [TI/Avalon]: “Islanders invited. Formal opening of Isthmus. All islanders are invited to participate in the opening celebration of the Isthmus next Saturday, June 28 as guests of the Catalina Island Company, leaving Avalon on board the S.S. Cabrillo at 9 a.m. If Avalon business men themselves cannot go, owing to business demands, members of their families are cordially invited to enjoy a day's outing at the Isthmus and participate in its dedication to the public as a sister resort to Avalon..."

January 15, 1927: William Wrigley, Jr. initiated the Wrigley Ocean Marathon on January 15, 1927, offering a $25,000 prize to anyone who could swim the Catalina Channel. $15,000 was offered to the first woman to finish, if the prize should be won by a man. The swim began at Isthmus Cove at 11:24 A.M. and went to the San Pedro breakwater. A rowboat accompanied each contestant, and a small fleet of powerboats remained close at hand. Of the 102 entrants, 17-year-old Canadian, George Young won the $25,000 with a crossing time of 15 hours 44 minutes, landing at Portuguese Bend at 3:08 A.M. He was the only entrant to finish the race. Two women who failed the crossing were each given $2500.

August 13, 1930 [TI/Avalon]: “New telephone line to Isthmus."

'March 1944 [USNIP]: “In war time the island provides the location for a U.S. Maritime Commission training school for merchant seamen. Those trainees have the famed St. Catherine Hotel for their living quarters and they use the million-dollar Avalon Casino for their classroom work. Coast Guardsmen have a school among the palms on Isthmus Cove,” notes Lieutenant Commander Stanley A. Wheeler.

June 5, 1947 [TI/Avalon]:' “Talking it over. A special page of information for personnel of the Catalina Company. This page bought and paid for at straight advertising rates by the Santa Catalina Island Company. Here are the facts on why the change was made at the Isthmus. One of the principal purposes of this page is to keep the personnel of the Catalina Companies posted on facts and prevent the undermining effect of rumor which too often masquerades as fact. Just at present gossip is busy spreading thew rumor that the Isthmus us being used as a stepping stone to all sorts of possible changes in personnel in Avalon. In the interest of fairness to the Santa Catalina Island Company itself and all of its personnel, and particularly to Mr. W. F. Olsen who as director of hotels for the Company some years ago is thoroughly familiar with Catalina, and we with him, and who is just assuming the responsibility of operating the Isthmus for this summer, it seems best to recognize rumors of this kind and take care of them by the very simple process of publishing the facts, which are these. Separate operation works best. From the viewpoint of efficient and effective operation in Avalon, the summer operations at the Isthmus have always been a decided detriment except in those years when the Isthmus was operated as an entirely separate and distinct enterprise, standing squarely on its own feet, and as far as possible in direct competition to the Avalon operations. This fact was borne out again this year when we started to prepare the Isthmus for opening. The efforts of a dozen different people became divided between the Isthmus and Avalon, and their efficiency on their principal jobs suffered accordingly. This is the reason that the policy was changed in mid-stream, so to speak, and we feel very fortunate that Mr. Olsen was available and willing to step in to take over operation of the Isthmus for this summer as a completely independent operator, dealing with the S.C.I.Co. on an arm's length basis. Rumors nearly always harmful. This particular rumor about the Isthmus is one more example of the fact that rumors in general are nearly always unfair and harmful for the following reasons, which apply not just to this situation but to any and all rumors. No company can conduct its business for long without the loyal, whole-hearted cooperation of all its personnel, and you cannot get that cooperation when people feel that they do not know who may be their boss next or if they will even have a job. A corporation just cannot let this happen, so it must lean over backwards to prevent rumor from becoming fact and getting a toe-hold by the "I told you so" method. This can sometimes mean that changes are not made even when they should be in the best interest of the business, and that a good man may be kept out of a better job in spite of his capabilities if to make the change smacks even slightly out of the stepping-stone method backed by gossipy prediction of indirect and devious methods of conducting a business.”

August 19, 1977 [LAT]: “…The long, low building sitting on a rise above the Isthmus village is now the Isthmus Yacht Club. Many visitors don’t know it was built in 1864 by the Union Army as a lookout station for Confederate raiding ships…”

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